milstil

My other (single topic) tumblrs: picturesofgianniagnelli | ralphlipschitz | italianindustrialist

    7 Oct

  1. Yuppie scum monday: autumn ‘83

    Because it’s been too long. Ask yourself the question: what does fall 1983’s business wear mean to you and your career? And try to appreciate ‘the balance struck between timeliness and timelessness’. Whatever that might be. Reading editorial like this always makes we wonder how much drugs the poor souls forced to write this stuff are on. How many trips to the loo to fill the two introductory columns? From GQ september 1983. Scans via.

    yuppie scum monday gq 1983 suit and tie

     
  2. 4 Oct

  3. Ever wondered?

    How Ferdinando Brachetti Peretti himself puts on a scooter helmet after seeing him helping Fanny Ardant with her strap - here on this blog - about one year ago? Well did you? I know I did. Countless sleepless nights wasted. Hairs pulled. Walls scratched. But now salvation has come. The relentless Roman paparazzi have hunted down #menswear darling Ferdinando, once again at a rendezvous at Dal Bolognese, once again wearing the exact same beige summer suit - however this time (sadly) no pizza man windbreaker, no tie and considerably better lighting. After carefully studying the full set of photos I am stuck here with two important questions.

    One, why was Scott S. not here to document this event? Let’s highlight some essentials: Graying hair [✔] rich, old & European [✔] Italian dude in suit (tripled score!) [✔✔✔] Milanese Roman setting [✔] fags cigarettes [✔] coffee [✔] unbuttoned shirt cuffs [✔] mobile phone [✔] a bicycle scooter [ ✔] suit and scooter combination [ ✔✔✔] loafers - with socks so deduction - [ half a ✔ ] mewelry [✔] and cobblestones [✔]. Almost a perfect score.

    Two, and more importantly, who makes his suits? Is this style a specific regional variation I am unaware of? Or a Brachetti Peretti concoction (as papa Aldo and little bro Ugo were spotted with said style as well e.g. I-II-III ) perhaps? A case of intergenerational Saterday Night Fever nostalgia? I ask because the suit - aside from the lapels and shoulders is pretty ‘standard’ traditional Italian fare - two button single breasted, front darts, double split, with jetted pockets and kissing sleeve buttons, straight up-and-down trousers with cuffs and double reverse pleats? held up with a belt. Nothing unusual here, but the kicker of course as always, is the shoulder and lapel combo.

    So what is so special here mmm? Well, if you are deeply embedded in the iGent fashion subculture to be reading obscure, fringe blogs like mine you should already know that extended shoulders in high end Italo-tailoring are nothing extraordinary however the ones on display above are in a league of their own. Almost Ralph territory. However unlike uncle Ralpy’s Nutter-esque bespoke illusion of epic shoulder gainz, Ferdinando’s shoulders seem softer, more sloped with some strategically placed padding at the the top and the backside of the sleevehead to prevent drooping. The lapels are best described as long, fat and wide - think disco, not sartoria. Wide as they cover more than half of the chest, fat because they have a ‘belly’ (#menswear lingo for outward curving lapels, in classical tailoring usually found to be a feature of peaked lapels) and long revers lapels, the result of placing the notch high and top button at the natural waist.

    Now tell me, what are we looking at here, Tony Manero from Brooklyn or Sartoria Nescio from Neverlandia?

    ferdinando brachetti peretti

     
  4. 26 Sep

  5. MODEL BEHAVIOUR: AT THE EMPIRE DINER

    “That tweedy asshole’s staring at me.”

    “Why would he be staring at you?”

    “I don’t know, he probably hates Jews.”

    “Jeremy, you don’t look like a Jew,” I whisper. “Even your mother has her doubts. You look like a goddamn Swede. You look like Thor or Woden, for Christ’s sake. Did you have a Scandinavian milkman when you were growing up?’ Whether or not the man in question, an aging prepster in Harris tweed, had any previous interest in Jeremy, he does turn toward us at this moment, revealing, it seems to me, a face that is more plausibly Semitic than my friend’s.

    “What’s the matter?” Jeremy shouts. “You’ve never seen a Jew with long blond hair?” Holding up a hank of his blond mane. 

    An admirer of the sixties, Jeremy is still fighting the old battles, perhaps because he missed them at the time. Like the priest of a lost religion, herails against the corruption of a society in which the Beatles’ “Revolution” is used to sell sneakers.

    “Is Lehmann-Haupt Jewish?” Jeremey ask.

    "Actually" I say, "I have no idea."

    Tweedy assholes and tweed douchebags, it’s fall baby and they are back. From Jay McInerney’s Model Behavior, pictures The Big Picture and The Hands shot in France 2002 by photographer Tina Barney for her The Europeans project. The result of her grand tour of Europe between 1996 and 2004 when she traveled to Austria, Italy, England, Spain, France and Germany, photographing folks who earlier would have commissioned painted portraits of themselves. 

    (Source: alwaysoutnumberedneveroutgunned)

    tweed tina barney the europeans 2002

     
  6. 21 Sep

  7. End of the summer slump (I think, I hope, I guess?)

    I posted a bunch images on II&IS and am actually writing something for this blog, if you can believe it. Although it may be wise to assume a somewhat skeptical attitude, like Alfio for instance- as featured above. Consider this post a declaration of intent that should prompt some (any!) sort of discipline, a stick (not too big to be too threatening but of moderate size) to keep me on track. Picture of Alfio Marchini via.

    alfio marchini suit and tie

     
  8. 16 Jul

  9. Plakkerige poten en polsen

    Zweterige polsen, welke dynamische beeldschermprofessional die niet opteert voor dubbele manchetten (proleet!), heeft er geen last van? Ondanks de air conditioning in uw kooi kantoortuin Bürolandschaft kunnen de manchetjes gaan plakken bij het zware werk aan het zoveelste rapport waarvan de baas alleen het ‘executive summary’ leest. Ik, als weldoener en anti-cynicus, wil met deze reblog trachten deze lijdensweg te verlichten. Met een tip, een suggestie die uw leven zal veranderen. Hier komt ie: ge ervoor kunt ervoor kiezen dat eenzame paarlemoeren knoopje op het manchet (alleen hemden van bedenkelijk allooi - lees goedkoop en uit het rek - maar vooral goedkoop - hebben zo’n reserveknoopje) niet te gebruiken. De techniek is natuurlijk niet nieuw maar zeer effectief (klik voor beelden van Gianni Agnelli, Dieter Meier, Gunter Sachs en andere voorbeelden die alles zijn wat jij niet bent). En onmisbaar voor dat dramatisch en theatraal effect bij het uitkafferen van collega’s en ondergeschikten. Of het verbaal vernederen van stagairs all’italiana. 

    italianindustrialist:

    “Capra, idiota, finocchio e troia! ” Vittorio Sgarbi being his charming self. 

    (Source: sologossip.com)