How Ferdinando Brachetti Peretti himself puts on a scooter helmet after seeing him helping Fanny Ardant with her strap - here on this blog - about one year ago? Well did you? I know I did. Countless sleepless nights wasted. Hairs pulled. Walls scratched. But now salvation has come. The relentless Roman paparazzi have hunted down #menswear darling Ferdinando, once again at a rendezvous at Dal Bolognese, once again wearing the exact same beige summer suit - however this time (sadly) no pizza man windbreaker, no tie and considerably better lighting. After carefully studying the full set of photos I am stuck here with two important questions.
One, why was Scott S. not here to document this event? Let’s highlight some essentials: Graying hair [✔] rich, old & European [✔] Italian dude in suit (tripled score!) [✔✔✔] Milanese Roman setting [✔] fags cigarettes [✔] coffee [✔] unbuttoned shirt cuffs [✔] mobile phone [✔] a bicycle scooter [ ✔] suit and scooter combination [ ✔✔✔] loafers - with socks so deduction - [ half a ✔ ] mewelry [✔] and cobblestones [✔]. Almost a perfect score.
Two, and more importantly, who makes his suits? Is this style a specific regional variation I am unaware of? Or a Brachetti Peretti concoction (as papa Aldo and little bro Ugo were spotted with said style as well e.g. I-II-III ) perhaps? A case of intergenerational Saterday Night Fever nostalgia? I ask because the suit - aside from the lapels and shoulders is pretty ‘standard’ traditional Italian fare - two button single breasted, front darts, double split, with jetted pockets and kissing sleeve buttons, straight up-and-down trousers with cuffs and double reverse pleats? held up with a belt. Nothing unusual here, but the kicker of course as always, is the shoulder and lapel combo.
So what is so special here mmm? Well, if you are deeply embedded in the iGent fashion subculture to be reading obscure, fringe blogs like mine you should already know that extended shoulders in high end Italo-tailoring are nothing extraordinary however the ones on display above are in a league of their own. Almost Ralph territory. However unlike uncle Ralpy’s Nutter-esque bespoke illusion of epic shoulder gainz, Ferdinando’s shoulders seem softer, more sloped with some strategically placed padding at the the top and the backside of the sleevehead to prevent drooping. The lapels are best described as long, fat and wide - think disco, not sartoria. Wide as they cover more than half of the chest, fat because they have a ‘belly’ (#menswear lingo for outward curving lapels, in classical tailoring usually found to be a feature of peaked lapels) and long
revers lapels, the result of placing the notch high and top button at the natural waist.
Now tell me, what are we looking at here, Tony Manero from Brooklyn or Sartoria Nescio from Neverlandia?