My other (single topic) tumblrs: picturesofgianniagnelli | ralphlipschitz | italianindustrialist

    22 Apr

  1. ralphlipschitz:

    White Party

    1) A party in which all participants wear white. I used to think that a white party was meant only for white people but I learned that the “white” means that only white apparel and clothes are to be worn.

    [example] “At our white party some ghetto fuck walked in wearing ghetto ass clothes that where not white… so we kicked his ghetto ass out.”
    Via Urban Dictionary, pictures via Hanover CharitiesFebruary 15, 2014 - Sugar Cane Ball - Truman Capote’s Black and White Ball.
    nehru dinner jacket prince michael of kent ralph lauren ricky lauren michael of kent black tie dinner jacket

  2. 22 Apr

  3. Colonial behavio(u)r and a sleeve pitch


    Western civilization set the standards of dress for colonizers in foreign outposts in a way that stereotyped the differences between colonizer and subject populations. For example, Westerners often made a point of dressing in full European attire (woolen suits for men, corseted dresses for women) when touring up-country in the African bush or the jungles of Java; they wished their willingness to endure discomfort for the sake of dressing “properly” to be viewed as evidence of moral and cultural superiority. Although some Europeans in early encounter situations adopted local elements of dress, for example loose-stitched gowns of cotton and silk in India, colonial dress practice became increasingly rigid and formal. As time went by, colonial dress codes regarded cultural cross-dressing (a sign of “going native”) to be an affront to the standards of the ruling group. Obsessions over dress extended to climate and disease. The British in India and Africa wore special underwear to guard themselves against sudden weather changes. They wore sola topis, flannel-lined solar helmets, to protect themselves against the dangerous rays of the sun. The fears associated with the physical environment provoked a form of a sometimes suicidal depression that contemporary medical doctors in east and southern Africa decribed as tropical neurasthenia.


    A paragraph that I thought noteworthy and more or less applicable to the featured photoset of our favoured playboy prince. It is taken from a piece on the fashion of imperialism and the influence of imperialism of the fashions of the colonized. Specific topics also covered at length in the second episode Making Ourselves at Home of the 2012 BBC documentary series Empire, worth a watch if you happen to give a shit, read:your interest in textile and their history goes beyond the superficialities of lookbook reblogs. And if, big if for some, you are able to endure with Paxo’s personality, his narration and presentation.

    Added images of Prince Bernhard obviously, a passionate imperialist and skeptic on most matters concerning democracy, swanking and swaggering in an off white summer suit displaying what may just be the perfect sleeve pitch. Damn. That’s the who and what question adressed. Now look at that sleeve pitch again. Let it sink in for a while. Go over it. Redress. Reassess. Oh boy. Now for the sake of completeness, a short where, when, by whom: Dutch former colony of Suriname, October 1965, by Hy-Vo from the Fotocollectie Anefo. I want that colonialist sleeve pitch, and you should too if know what’s good for you. 

    prince bernhard benno summer suit sleeve pitch suriname colonialism

  4. 15 Apr

  5. Draag een sjaal

    Als het buiten nog fris is. Ook als je geen jas over je tweedje draagt. En het is vandaag dinsdag. En morgen is het woensdag. Ja, ik denk, ik zeg het maar even. More scarfology, here, there, and everywhere, in many different places.


    Edmondo di Robilant

    (Source: Flickr / stmoritzartmasters-media)

  6. 15 Apr

  7. Niet zo makkelijk: dasjes en boordjes

    Asymmetrisch knoopje, een beetje scheef gedragen, mét een pisgoot onder een niet te stijf boordje. Een beetje sleets, een tikkeltje verwassen, zonder boordbaleinen en andere toestanden. Nee, nee, zo’n deftige compositie in textiel is niet makkelijk, vraag Luca maar. Of Gianni. Of Ralphie en dé Beau. Of Govert van Tets,hierboven te bewonderen in z’n beste ‘who, me?’ pose tijdens een sessie van parlementare enquetecommissie bouwsubsidies, september 1987. Gekiekt door Rob Bogaerts, uit het Nationaal Archief.

    suit and tie collar and tie govert van tets 1987

  8. 10 Apr

  9. Pale Fire

    I was the shadow of the waxwing slain

    By the false azure in the window pane

    Though there is no dead wildlife, an interior design section (a.k.a. lifestyle porn) nor literary genius on this blog, there are summer ‘air ties' - try at your own risk - cotton and linen - much easier and safer things - GQ fashion spreads from January 1989 with nebulose titles (via)

    vladimir nabokov pale fire 1989 linen cotton sunglasses gq