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    7 Apr

  1. Yuppie Scum Monday: Tad’s Energy

    You tell her what a good guy Tad is. You like his energy and his style-joie de vivre, je ne sais quoi, savoir-faire, sprezzatura. You are nearly sincere. Having a cousin like Vicky tips the scales in his favor. You are inclined to cut him some slack. Not necessarily the man for a heart-to-heart, but indispensable in a party situation. You tell her that Tad has been a good friend in time of need. If not exactly sensitive, then generous in his own careless way. “Are you two very close,” you ask. ”I think he’s an ass,” she says.

    From Jay McInerney’s 1984 novel Bright Lights, Big City, which was made into a feature film in 1988 starring Alex P. Keaton Marty McFly Michael J. Fox and Jack Bauer Kiefer Sutherland as Tad, as two yuppie degenerates (pleonasm, I know). Grant Carradine photographed for Burberrys’ for Bloomingdale’s from 1990 (via) looks scarily similar to Tad, so I figured I’d drop a little quote, ter lering ende vermaeck. 

    jay mcinerney burberrys' print ad 1990 1984 bright lights big city yuppie scum monday

  2. 6 Apr

  3. Hipster shit #5: My Condolences

    Could it be true? Could it be real?

    Beard transplants killed the Hipster

    By John Kass, February 2014, in the Chicago Tribune

    The Hipster is dead

    You must have seen this iconic American type, with his big glasses, scruffy beard and brightly colored skinny pants. But he’s no more.

    He was killed off on the pages of the New York Post the other day.

    His demise occurred in Brooklyn, described by the Post as the official hub of the “lumberjack-meets-roadie hybrid,” and the cause of death was no mystery.

    A beard transplant got him.

    Yes, young men who wanted to look like hipsters but couldn’t grow full beards began asking plastic surgeons to supply the follicles from elsewhere on the body.

    Such a move, even at the modest cost of about $8,500, does not bespeak a lifestyle. It does not bespeak a trend. It speaks of sculpting. And sculpting is the antithesis of the hipster ethos. Hippies died the same way in 1967. The rest was costume.

    R.I.P. (…)

    Read the whole piece here.


    Princess Caroline of Monaco and Robertino Rossellini in Paris, 1981.

    robertino rossellini princess caroline of monaco 1981 hipster shit beard beards facial hair john kass

  4. 6 Apr

  5. Like a self satisfied, smirkin’ SOB

    Dressed-by-internet, right? The tortoise shades, the quilted down vest worn over a tailored jacket, floppy hat, the blogger blue blazer - this has to be textbook pitti shit, correct? Well no, and yes. No, because the swaggering SOB was snapped by geriatric streetstyle blogger Ari Seth Cohen back in ‘09. And yes since the SOB in question, who’s name I forgot - but I do know he was an instrumental and pioneering figure in bringing the first Neapolitan tailored RTW to the US of A - knew it was going to be textbook pitti/blogger shit eventually. I figure our hatted Harry and sartorial soothsayer here must have been in the business for at least 40 years which makes me wonder: does he simply know what’s what (a.k.a. an early adopter) or is it sheer trickle down power (a.k.a. an initiator) who can enlighten me? 

    Then to think that at the time, oh-oh-oh back in O-nine, I was mostly curious about how much time this man had spent in the morning miscoordinating his belt and shoes and the off white shirt… Anyway, if you are able to id this dude, please send me message, and if you don’t know, well, then check out this grainy vid about Pitti and trends? Come to think of it, Meryl Streep as fashion editor Anna Wintour Miranda Priestly in a little guilty pleasure called The Devil Wears Prada (2006), describes the viral aspects of a (fashion) trend best in her 'cerulean monologue'. A great piece of screen writing, interesting for both students of film and fashion eh style. Here is a transcript which I stole from IMDB, Miranda schools her assistent Andy, who is the clueless protagonist the romcom is centered around.

    Miranda Priestly: [Miranda and some assistants are deciding between two similar belts for an outfit. Andy sniggers because she thinks they look exactly the same] Something funny?

    Andrea ‘Andy’ Sachs: No. No, no. Nothing’s… You know, it’s just that both those belts look exactly the same to me. You know, I’m still learning about all this stuff and, uh…

    Miranda Priestly: ‘This… stuff’? Oh. Okay. I see. You think this has nothing to do with you. You go to your closet and you select… I don’t know… that lumpy blue sweater, for instance because you’re trying to tell the world that you take yourself too seriously to care about what you put on your back. But what you don’t know is that that sweater is not just blue, it’s not turquoise. It’s not lapis. It’s actually cerulean. And you’re also blithely unaware of the fact that in 2002, Oscar de la Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns. And then I think it was Yves Saint Laurent… wasn’t it who showed cerulean military jackets? I think we need a jacket here. And then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of eight different designers. And then it, uh, filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic Casual Corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin. However, that blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs and it’s sort of comical how you think that you’ve made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when, in fact, you’re wearing the sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room from a pile of stuff.

    who is it? scarf hats sunglasses layering virality miranda priestly the devil wears prada cerulean monologue

  6. 2 Apr

  7. Little bonus (to the previous post obvi.)

    Christopher Hitchens with his wife, Carol Blue, during a trip to Romania in 1989, the year of the Romanian Revolution (via). I wanted to point out the aviator sunglasses and herringbone raglan coat, but they probably already caught your eye. 

    christopher hitchens sunglasses eyewear raglan coat outerwear conflict journalism

  8. 2 Apr

  9. Bring a pen

    Surely, that’s the bare minimum. Plus wayfarer style sunglasses and flash that chest, release your inner Gunter for the photo opp with freedom fighters. On a more serious note: ever wondered what a war correspondent’s EDC looks like? Well, I asked myself the same question as I was wonderin’ what the hell to put underneath these snaps of Christopher Hitchens in Iraq during the First Gulf War (via). Well, it tends to be less glamorous than the Hitch makes it all seem, suprise-suprise. Check out video journalist Vaughan Smith’s run down of his gear here (with list! sadly no video), and proto-warblogger Kevin Sites’ kit (with list and EDC picture!) over here. And in case you want a vintage perspective, and that is what you always want if you are a #menswear nerd, a long read on kit by the first American war reporter Richard Harding Davis, from his book Notes of a War Correspondent  (1910). The man is pretty thorough, as the description of his carry-all shows: 


    A more compact form of valise and bed combined is the “carry-all,” or any of the many makes of sleeping-bags, which during the day carry the kit and at night when spread upon the ground serve for a bed. The one once most used by Englishmen was Lord Wolseley’s “valise and sleeping-bag.” It was complicated by a number of strings, and required as much lacing as a dozen pairs of boots. It has been greatly improved by a new sleeping-bag with straps, and flaps that tuck in at the ends. But the obvious disadvantage of all sleeping- bags is that in rain and mud you are virtually lying on the hard ground, at the mercy of tarantula and fever.

    The carry-all is, nevertheless, to my mind, the most nearly perfect way in which to pack a kit. I have tried the trunk, valise, and sleeping-bag, and vastly prefer it to them all. My carry-all differs only from the sleeping-bag in that, instead of lining it so that it may be used as a bed, I carry in its pocket a folding cot. By omitting the extra lining for the bed, I save almost the weight of the cot. The folding cot I pack is the Gold Medal Bed, made in this country, but which you can purchase almost anywhere. I once carried one from Chicago to Cape Town to find on arriving I could buy the bed there at exactly the same price I had paid for it in America. I also found them in Tokio, where imitations of them were being made by the ingenious and disingenuous Japanese. They are light in weight, strong, and comfortable, and are undoubtedly the best camp-bed made. When at your elevation of six inches above the ground you look down from one of them upon a comrade in a sleeping-bag with rivulets of rain and a tide of muddy water rising above him, your satisfaction, as you fall asleep, is worth the weight of the bed in gold.

    My carry-all is of canvas with a back of waterproof. It is made up of three strips six and a half feet long. The two outer strips are each two feet three inches wide, the middle strip four feet. At one end of the middle strip is a deep pocket of heavy canvas with a flap that can be fastened by two straps. When the kit has been packed in this pocket, the two side strips are folded over it and the middle strip and the whole is rolled up and buckled by two heavy straps on the waterproof side. It is impossible for any article to fall out or for the rain to soak in. I have a smaller carry-all made on the same plan, but on a tiny scale, in which to carry small articles and a change of clothing. It goes into the pocket after the bed, chair, and the heavier articles are packed away. When the bag is rolled up they are on the outside of and form a protection to the articles of lighter weight.

    The only objection to the carry-all is that it is an awkward bundle to pack. It is difficult to balance it on the back of an animal, but when you are taking a tent with you or carrying your provisions, it can be slung on one side of the pack saddle to offset their weight on the other.

    I use the carry-all when I am travelling “heavy.” By that I mean when it is possible to obtain pack-animal or cart. When travelling light and bivouacking by night without a pack-horse, bed, or tent, I use the saddle-bags, already described. These can be slung over the back of the horse you ride, or if you walk, carried over your shoulder. I carried them in this latter way in Greece, in the Transvaal, and Cuba during the rebellion, and later with our own army.


    christopher hitchens 1991 iraq edc richard harding davis sunglasses eyewear conflict journalism