milstil

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    6 Apr

  1. Like a self satisfied, smirkin’ SOB

    Dressed-by-internet, right? The tortoise shades, the quilted down vest worn over a tailored jacket, floppy hat, the blogger blue blazer - this has to be textbook pitti shit, correct? Well no, and yes. No, because the swaggering SOB was snapped by geriatric streetstyle blogger Ari Seth Cohen back in ‘09. And yes since the SOB in question, who’s name I forgot - but I do know he was an instrumental and pioneering figure in bringing the first Neapolitan tailored RTW to the US of A - knew it was going to be textbook pitti/blogger shit eventually. I figure our hatted Harry and sartorial soothsayer here must have been in the business for at least 40 years which makes me wonder: does he simply know what’s what (a.k.a. an early adopter) or is it sheer trickle down power (a.k.a. an initiator) who can enlighten me? 

    Then to think that at the time, oh-oh-oh back in O-nine, I was mostly curious about how much time this man had spent in the morning miscoordinating his belt and shoes and the off white shirt… Anyway, if you are able to id this dude, please send me message, and if you don’t know, well, then check out this grainy vid about Pitti and trends? Come to think of it, Meryl Streep as fashion editor Anna Wintour Miranda Priestly in a little guilty pleasure called The Devil Wears Prada (2006), describes the viral aspects of a (fashion) trend best in her 'cerulean monologue'. A great piece of screen writing, interesting for both students of film and fashion eh style. Here is a transcript which I stole from IMDB, Miranda schools her assistent Andy, who is the clueless protagonist the romcom is centered around.

    Miranda Priestly: [Miranda and some assistants are deciding between two similar belts for an outfit. Andy sniggers because she thinks they look exactly the same] Something funny?

    Andrea ‘Andy’ Sachs: No. No, no. Nothing’s… You know, it’s just that both those belts look exactly the same to me. You know, I’m still learning about all this stuff and, uh…

    Miranda Priestly: ‘This… stuff’? Oh. Okay. I see. You think this has nothing to do with you. You go to your closet and you select… I don’t know… that lumpy blue sweater, for instance because you’re trying to tell the world that you take yourself too seriously to care about what you put on your back. But what you don’t know is that that sweater is not just blue, it’s not turquoise. It’s not lapis. It’s actually cerulean. And you’re also blithely unaware of the fact that in 2002, Oscar de la Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns. And then I think it was Yves Saint Laurent… wasn’t it who showed cerulean military jackets? I think we need a jacket here. And then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of eight different designers. And then it, uh, filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic Casual Corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin. However, that blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs and it’s sort of comical how you think that you’ve made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when, in fact, you’re wearing the sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room from a pile of stuff.

    who is it? scarf hats sunglasses layering virality miranda priestly the devil wears prada cerulean monologue

     
  2. 2 Apr

  3. Little bonus (to the previous post obvi.)

    Christopher Hitchens with his wife, Carol Blue, during a trip to Romania in 1989, the year of the Romanian Revolution (via). I wanted to point out the aviator sunglasses and herringbone raglan coat, but they probably already caught your eye. 

    christopher hitchens sunglasses eyewear raglan coat outerwear conflict journalism

     
  4. 2 Apr

  5. Bring a pen

    Surely, that’s the bare minimum. Plus wayfarer style sunglasses and flash that chest, release your inner Gunter for the photo opp with freedom fighters. On a more serious note: ever wondered what a war correspondent’s EDC looks like? Well, I asked myself the same question as I was wonderin’ what the hell to put underneath these snaps of Christopher Hitchens in Iraq during the First Gulf War (via). Well, it tends to be less glamorous than the Hitch makes it all seem, suprise-suprise. Check out video journalist Vaughan Smith’s run down of his gear here (with list! sadly no video), and proto-warblogger Kevin Sites’ kit (with list and EDC picture!) over here. And in case you want a vintage perspective, and that is what you always want if you are a #menswear nerd, a long read on kit by the first American war reporter Richard Harding Davis, from his book Notes of a War Correspondent  (1910). The man is pretty thorough, as the description of his carry-all shows: 

    (…)

    A more compact form of valise and bed combined is the “carry-all,” or any of the many makes of sleeping-bags, which during the day carry the kit and at night when spread upon the ground serve for a bed. The one once most used by Englishmen was Lord Wolseley’s “valise and sleeping-bag.” It was complicated by a number of strings, and required as much lacing as a dozen pairs of boots. It has been greatly improved by a new sleeping-bag with straps, and flaps that tuck in at the ends. But the obvious disadvantage of all sleeping- bags is that in rain and mud you are virtually lying on the hard ground, at the mercy of tarantula and fever.

    The carry-all is, nevertheless, to my mind, the most nearly perfect way in which to pack a kit. I have tried the trunk, valise, and sleeping-bag, and vastly prefer it to them all. My carry-all differs only from the sleeping-bag in that, instead of lining it so that it may be used as a bed, I carry in its pocket a folding cot. By omitting the extra lining for the bed, I save almost the weight of the cot. The folding cot I pack is the Gold Medal Bed, made in this country, but which you can purchase almost anywhere. I once carried one from Chicago to Cape Town to find on arriving I could buy the bed there at exactly the same price I had paid for it in America. I also found them in Tokio, where imitations of them were being made by the ingenious and disingenuous Japanese. They are light in weight, strong, and comfortable, and are undoubtedly the best camp-bed made. When at your elevation of six inches above the ground you look down from one of them upon a comrade in a sleeping-bag with rivulets of rain and a tide of muddy water rising above him, your satisfaction, as you fall asleep, is worth the weight of the bed in gold.

    My carry-all is of canvas with a back of waterproof. It is made up of three strips six and a half feet long. The two outer strips are each two feet three inches wide, the middle strip four feet. At one end of the middle strip is a deep pocket of heavy canvas with a flap that can be fastened by two straps. When the kit has been packed in this pocket, the two side strips are folded over it and the middle strip and the whole is rolled up and buckled by two heavy straps on the waterproof side. It is impossible for any article to fall out or for the rain to soak in. I have a smaller carry-all made on the same plan, but on a tiny scale, in which to carry small articles and a change of clothing. It goes into the pocket after the bed, chair, and the heavier articles are packed away. When the bag is rolled up they are on the outside of and form a protection to the articles of lighter weight.

    The only objection to the carry-all is that it is an awkward bundle to pack. It is difficult to balance it on the back of an animal, but when you are taking a tent with you or carrying your provisions, it can be slung on one side of the pack saddle to offset their weight on the other.

    I use the carry-all when I am travelling “heavy.” By that I mean when it is possible to obtain pack-animal or cart. When travelling light and bivouacking by night without a pack-horse, bed, or tent, I use the saddle-bags, already described. These can be slung over the back of the horse you ride, or if you walk, carried over your shoulder. I carried them in this latter way in Greece, in the Transvaal, and Cuba during the rebellion, and later with our own army.

    (…)

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  6. 31 Mar

  7. 1969 versus 2007

    As Geoffrey Chaucer once said “There’s never a new fashion but it’s old.” Actor Mark Frechette in Marc Bohan for Christian Dior Monsieur and Kilgour, photographed by Richard Avedon for A New American Hero, Modern Greats Worn By Mark Frechette in Vogue November 1969 (via). And underneath we see modern menswear champion Lapo Elkann in what are probably Agnelli heirlooms photographed by Bruce Gilden for Vanity Fair Italia, July 2007 (via).’07 was our golden boy’s breakout year on the international fashion scene and marked the beginning of his ascension in that dark part of the internetz nowadays referred to as #menswear.

    This is a belated post in a series on menswear cyclicality. See other and older comparisons here. For more vintage Lapo in glitzy fashion spreads check these ancient II&IS post: Lapo & Doutzen in American Vogue June, 2007 and Lapo in L’ Uomo Vogue January 2007.

    lapo elkann blazer richard avedon bruce gilden fashion cyclicality fashion genius double breasted peak lapels mark frechette milstil

     
  8. 30 Mar

  9. Hipster shit #4

    (…)

    As my world evolved, I developed a strong interest and appreciation of the design, architecture, fashion, art and the food that were always all around me.

    I met the most amazing and inspiring people in the world but the ones that I really admire and remember are the passionate men that live their lives to the fullest with a burning fire in their heart for everything they do. I like to think I’m one of those men.

    I dress with style, I follow a certain code of honour with respect for everyone, nature and our past, as I look forward. I am and act like a man, not a boy.

    I value some real face time with friends over a drink, cooking dinner or a hunt. And I prefer to make a difference and better the world, than play with gadgets by my self, at home - alone.

    A modern day Ernest Hemmingway

    (…)

    The Urban Huntsman.

    You can’t make this shit up, no matter how hard you try. The fact that I found this passage while googling ‘urban huntsman’, what I reckon to be the slightly more delusional cousin of the Sloaney 'urban farmer' (a.k.a. the rus-in-urbe), made me realize there must be a contingent of stunods out there who think similarly. That means there might be an additional audience besides the more common ‘classic menswear’ fashionistos, for this belted corduroy safari jacket. Let’s see how many urban huntsmen will heart this scan from L’Optimum magazine from 1996. And let’s find out just how many of my 16 followers are part of the fifth column that will inevitably ruin everything and anything worthwhile.

    From L’Optimum, 1996. Saharienne by Patrick Cox, picture by Adam Savitch. More hipster shit here.

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