milstil

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    4 Jul

  1. Hipster shit #6.1: Beards and button spacing

    Oh hey some object by David Adamo in the background here, and yet another appearance by Chris and Jeanette. Some - like Glenn O’Brien - say there are no clothes that flatter the fat and/or portly, that dressing for these unfortunates is first and foremost one big excercise in damage control. I share this opinion, however partly as a public service and partly to satisfy my and your curiosity, I’d like to share an example of damage control.

    As we establishd earlier Christian, unlike Jeanette, needs all sorts of help. Fortunately, he is able to find and afford the tailors that can accomodate for - and camouflage his flab. What cunning and cutting wizardry do we detect here? Well, dear readers here you see the effect of properly horizontally spaced blazer buttons. The shiny units, crested with the coat of arms of Fürstenberg no doubt, are placed in such a way  that reduces the ‘overlap’ of the centre fronts of this traditional double breasted blazer. As a bigger overlap would produce a widening effect. Anyway more examples here. Now what if you are a ‘bigger guy’ (how I love euphemisms for euphemisms) and happen to be unable or unwilling to pay for custom blazers? You can try fighting underlying causes instead of symptoms by reducing your calorie intake and increasing your metabolic rate. The superior solution, anywhere anytime. Picture via Badische Zeitung

    christian zu fürstenberg blazer hipster shit double breasted

     
  2. 29 Jun

  3. The Colour of Ugly

    by William Lower

    With the exception of tiger lilies and the fruit that bears its name, orange is a colour that should really keep to itself. Orange is ugly.

    Every few years, the fashion industry and trend setters of dubious origins spin the colour wheel of misfortune and pronounce the coming season’s dominate colour. It is inevitable that periodically the colour wheel comes to a pathetic and grinding halt on ugly orange. Like this year, for example. To make matters worse (which fashion people are prone to do; I give you bell-bottom pants if you don’t believe me), fashion leaders sometimes augment orange with neon thus requiring sunglasses when viewed. The fashion people see this as an opportunity because as luck would have it, many of them also market sunglasses. Even orange ones.

    In the 1970’s, orange was a dominant colour. Not only were cars painted orange but even airplanes. If you fly in small airplanes such as the Cessna 1972, it is not unusual to find many still flying today that were manufactured in that dismally orange decade. Planes are judged not so much by their age but by their hours of flight. So why are there so many orange 172’s still around? Because they are so ugly no one wants to fly them and hence, they remain low time aircraft. And speaking of flying, look at the countries flying flags with orange in them. Been to Bhutan lately? How about Nigeria? Sure, I know Ireland has orange on their flag. But not because they wanted to. It’s just that the British used red, white and blue and the Irish could have nothing that resembled anything British. Germany has orange, too. But from a country that gave us Porsche, Mercedes Benz, Zeiss lenses, Leica cameras, Bauhaus design and Nina Hagen, we have to allow for some indiscretions. No one is perfect. Not even the Germans.

    Fast food restaurants provide further evidence on the ugliness of orange. (Fast food restaurants prefer to be known as Quick Service Restaurants; a term only people in the industry use and only then because if they don’t and refer to themselves as ‘fast food’, they will be fired.) However, after consulting with behavioral psychologists and industrial interior designers, many fast food restaurants chose to have orange as a large colour component in their interior design. Why? Because studies show that people tend to eat more quickly and leave sooner when eating in a predominantly orange setting. The quicker people leave, the more people they can serve. Why do people leave so quickly? Because if the food doesn’t do it, the colour orange is enough to make them sick.

    Speaking of sick, the Ontario’s, Ministry of Health (Canada) owns a small fleet of helicopters that serve as air ambulances. Not only are they orange, they are even called orange except they dropped the letter “a” and called themselves “Ornge”. Ask any fixed wing pilot how helicopters fly and they will tell you, “They are so ugly, the earth repels them.” Add the ugly colour orange and you have double duty ugly and a seriously airborne object.

    On an even sicker, darker side of orange we have some notable examples, the most telling being a chemical weapon test marketed in the US Vietnam war. Did they call it ‘Agent Chartreuse’? ‘Agent Lavender’? No. It was Agent Orange. A nasty bit of business and thankfully not one that lasted.

    What does a person do if they are born with orange hair? Do you see them referring to themselves as ‘orangeheads’? No. They call themselves ‘redheads’. Why? Because even the word ‘orange’ is ugly. Orange is not only ugly, it can be downright frightening. It is the predominant colour depicting Halloween in North America. And if you want to rot the teeth right out of your children’s gip, just stuff them with orange dye-coloured candy. That ought to do the trick. Or treat. “Ah!” you say, “If orange is so horrible why do companies make so much orange-coloured packaging, like Hershey’s Peanut Butter Cups?” The answer to that is simple marketing. Orange is so ugly, consumers are prone to ripping the packaging off as quickly as they can and hence, tend to eat the candy equally as fast. The faster they eat it, the sooner they will buy more. Duh. “That doesn’t explain Tide laundry detergent” you respond. “Proctor and Gamble sure knows what they’re doing.” Indeed they do. Orange is so ugly the box of soap practically jumps off the shelf (can you spell ‘sales’?). And once in someone’s household, where does the ugly box of orange Tide laundry detergent end up? In a cupboard or laundry room with the doors shut so no one has to look at it.

    "Orange beach towels and beach toys for children!" you exclaim. "Why are they so popular? They’re associated with sunshine and fun!" Elementary dear Watson. People are predisposed to buying orange beach toys and towels precisely because orange is so ugly. If they get washed out to sea, who cares? You let those rip tides rip. And take this ugly orange towel with you.

    Well, my little pumpkins, that pretty well sums my diatribe on orange. Now if you will excuse me, I am going to retire to the drawing room with my coffee and carrot cake.

    Things will get very ugly for Mexico indeed, as team orange plays ever more efficient and unattractive football. Style versus results? I am with Johan on this one. Pictures of Paul Fentener van Vlissingen at SHV headquarters, 1987. From the ANP archives

    orange paul fentener van vlissingen double breasted 1987

     
  4. 18 Jun

  5. „Mijn ouwe heer was ten einde raad. Hij hoopt nu, dat ’t met de jaren wel beteren zal. Ik weet dat zoo niet. ’t Lijkt er nog niet veel op. ’k Heb ’t nog veel te goed zoo. Weet je dat Bavink pas een bom duiten heeft gemaakt? Een slootje bij Kortenhoef met een hooibergje en een kalf. Als je blieft.” En hij haalde zijn portemonnaie voor den dag. „Hij puilt van de centen. Koekebakker, jong, hij puilt van de centen. Harde riksjes. Morgen ga ik op reis.”

    „Met Bavink?” vroeg ik. „Neen,” zei Japi, „niet met Bavink, alleen. Ik ga naar Friesland.” „Midden in den winter?” Japi knikte. „Wat doen?” Hij haalde z’n schouders op. „Doen? Niks doen. Jelui kerels zijn zoo akelig wijs: alles moet een reden en een doel hebben. Ik ga naar Friesland, niks doen, nergens om. Zonder reden. Omdat ik er zin in heb.”

    Den volgenden avond bracht ik hem weg, in donker, naar den sneltrein van zevenen. Hij had een jas zonder knoopen aan, die hem veel te wijd was, een pet op, die hem een eind achter de ooren zakte en aan z’n voeten de nieuwe gele schoenen van Appi. In z’n hand hatti een papieren sigarenpijpje met een reclame. „Wacht even”, zei i, toen we al beneden waren. „Ik heb nog wat vergeten.” Even daarna kwam i terug met een vischhengel.

    Hij was weinig spraakzaam dien avond. Ik kon niet uit hem krijgen wat hij met dien vischhengel wilde. Onderweg rookte hij in een half uur vier sigaren uit zijn papieren sigarenpijpje, en toen ik aan het portier van hem afscheid nam vroeg hij me of ik niet een beetje tabak voor hem had.

    Na zes weken kwam hij terug met zes knoopen aan zijn jas en een paar rooie pluche pantoffels aan zijn voeten. Hij weigerde alle opheldering. Waar zijn vischhengel was? Oh, die had i uit den trein laten vallen. Hij was ook nog een keer in ’t water gevallen, zei i. Meer liet hij niet los. Blijkbaar had i zich al dien tijd niet laten scheren, hij had een kleur van roode baksteen en een lucht van koemest bij zich. Hij bracht twee pond tabak mee, die niemand rooken kon. Hij was er aan verslaafd en kwam in veertien dagen niet om een sigaar. Toen waren de twee pond op, plus een peukie dat hij ook nog had meegebracht. Toen bleek dat hij nergens in Amsterdam die tabak kon krijgen. Hij schreef er om naar Friesland, maar kreeg geen antwoord. Hij was er beroerd van. Maar na een paar dagen zag ik hem toch weer bij Bavink zitten met een sigaar in ’t hoofd, van Bavink natuurlijk.

    I suppose I don’t have to tell the regular reader who does not need to translate the above from which book I pulled these paragraphs, but I do need to tell you I stole this picture- of actor Fred Ward, published in L’Uomo Vogue 1993 - from the only #menswear tumblr that still manages to excite me on a regular basis: teenagedirtstache. If you read this: please keep up the good work & keep fighting the good fight. You make this tumblr thingey worthwhile. 

    fred ward l'uomo vogue 1993 nescio de uitvreter rare shout out raglan coat double breasted polo coat teenagedirtstache

     
  6. 31 Mar

  7. 1969 versus 2007

    As Geoffrey Chaucer once said “There’s never a new fashion but it’s old.” Actor Mark Frechette in Marc Bohan for Christian Dior Monsieur and Kilgour, photographed by Richard Avedon for A New American Hero, Modern Greats Worn By Mark Frechette in Vogue November 1969 (via). And underneath we see modern menswear champion Lapo Elkann in what are probably Agnelli heirlooms photographed by Bruce Gilden for Vanity Fair Italia, July 2007 (via).’07 was our golden boy’s breakout year on the international fashion scene and marked the beginning of his ascension in that dark part of the internetz nowadays referred to as #menswear.

    This is a belated post in a series on menswear cyclicality. See other and older comparisons here. For more vintage Lapo in glitzy fashion spreads check these ancient II&IS post: Lapo & Doutzen in American Vogue June, 2007 and Lapo in L’ Uomo Vogue January 2007.

    lapo elkann blazer richard avedon bruce gilden fashion cyclicality fashion genius double breasted peak lapels mark frechette milstil

     
  8. 6 Mar

  9. A short movement back in time - are you, or are you not…

    … the man in the pin-striped suit hit the service end of the bar where the waiters stood and immediately began shaking hand and joking with them as they waited for their drink orders to be filled. A few of the waiters looked up his suit up and down or fingered a lapel and smiled approvingly. The prince recieved the compliments in good faith. He agreed with them, it was a damn sharp suit. Damn sharp. And whtat about this bullshit? I mean, seriously, tell me about this bullshit. All these half-dead yuppie-hipster motherfuckers in here with more money than God and not one of them knows how to put on threads. Am I lying? Am I making this shit up? Reggie there, busing tables, busting his ass for  tips from you cheap-ass waiters, is there any doubt that Reggie is smooth as hell once he off and heads down the Lamplight? Am I lying? Reggie, are you or are you not a smooth motherfucker? 

    I am a smooth motherfucker.

    Indeed. You are, you are. Hey, listen, I got nothing aginst my iGent brothers. I like my Monocle readin’ brothers fine. Hell, I’ve loved some look-book-reblogging brothers. But why, tell me why, not a one of those plaid motherfuckers can dress to save their flat anglo ‘murican ass? And more money than they know what to with? Am I lying?

    Much laughter. 

    When are those motherfuckers gonna learn?

    Laughter, shaking of head.

    Be bringing us some dinner. Bring me my dinner and I’ll show your nerdy ass how to dress. 

    —-

    Text shamelessly plagiarized from Inman Majors’ The Millionaires: A Novel of the New South because I’m running out of ideas. What more can be said about pin-striped double breasted suits? Please tell me. Pictures of Prince Bernhard at the Bloemengala Rijnsburg 1982, taken from the Nationaal Archief, The Hague. 

    are you or are you not a smooth motherfucker? prince bernhard 1982 double breasted Boutonnière milstil