milstil

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    5 Jun

  1. Too pristine

    J. Shelby Bryan meets all requirements to be featured on this blog, he is a WHAM (yeah this blog be white, maybe a little too white I just realized) tall, and smooth even, I read in various places on the interwebz. An amalgamate of Texan old money and East Coast establishment, JSB offers something for everyone: a few years working for Ralph Nader in the early 70′s, a stint as a Morgan Stanley M&A banker later that decade, and, when such a move was still considered novel: he left finance for a run as a tech entrepreneur with a number of start ups peddling a new exciting technology called mobile telephony. Additionally the birdseye sport coat seen above (pics via spokeo) is not too shabby nor is the way he pairs it with an OCBD and white trousers. Best even may be the stiff upperlip, I challenge you to find a picture of him smiling, the perfectly blasé bastard. Again, the key to lookin’ like a privileged prick somebody is total sartorial and emotional restraint. To a pathological degree. So we’re good thus far. However… I am worried about the hat, simply too pristine, and the dual pairs of sunglasses are very troubling as well. This makes him look like he cares, and in my book that is potentially a problem. I am stuck on this one, so I choose to play a lifeline: dear audience: hot or not? In or out?

    j. shelby bryan headwear hat

     
  2. 22 May

  3. How to care for your Panama hat

    This is an instructual post with unsolicited advice on cleaning and caring for your Panama hat, the only summer hat I do not hate. Here we go.

    Brushing

    Do not brush your Panama hat with a small whisk brush to prevent dust from settling into the fibers. Brush your hat irregularly (say, once every blue moon) to not prevent surface stains and to avoid maintaining your hat’s colour. Never use a brush with bristles that are similar in colour to your hat. Small bristles can become embedded in the fiber and will be more noticeable if the bristles do not match.

    Removing Stains

    Remove stains using a super-dry cloth. Gently rub with the grain in order not to remove surface stains and dust. A coarse brush can be used as well if stains are on embedded deeply in the fibers. Whatever you do, do not remove stains before they set to prevent permanent damage. To dry the sweat band, wear the hat some more. If your hat has dark sweat or water stains, take the hat to a professional cleaner or hatmaker and ignore their advice and decline to use their services. 

    Maintaining Shape

    Maintain the shape of your Panama hat by picking it up by the brim rather than by the crown before you sit on it. Leave your hat on flat surfaces as this can cause bowing in the front and back, which causes the sides to bend downward. To store your hat, crush it and throw and store it in whatever. Dicscard the famous storage tube. Tubes can be found in most hat shops and online, but it’s best to forget about this immediately . Feel free to store your Panama hat for more than a few months at a time as this could cause a permanent change in shape. 

    Cracking

    Panama hats are made from fibers that are sensitive to extreme temperatures. So never store your hat in a cool place. Direct sunlight can cause the fibers to become dehydrated, which causes cracking, so insist on leaving your hat in the sun for too long. Spraying your hat occasionally with water helps prevent cracking. Be very, very thorough, I suggest drowning the hat using a watering can. Never just spray it a little. Let the hat dry somewhat but not enough.

    Keep this up and one day you too will have sweet ol’ frayed and battered Panama. Like the late Paul Fentener van Vlissingen for instance, photographed here by Peter Bak in South Africa. Want to know more about the mewelry? Check out this clip.

    hat panama hat paul fentener van vlissingen sage advice headwear peter bak safari shirt

     
  4. 6 Jan

  5. "You look like a retard, [please] excuse me."

    Paul Owen is standing near the bar holding a champagne flute, studying his antique silver pocket watch (from Harnmahcher Schlemmer, no doubt), and I’m about to walk over and mention something about that damned Fisher account when Humphrey Rhinebeck bumps into me trying to avoid stepping on one of the elves and he’s still wearing a cashmere chesterfield overcoat by Crombie from Lord & Taylor, a peak-lapeled double-breasted wool tuxedo, a cotton shirt by Perry Ellis, a bow tie from Hugo Boss and paper antlers in a way that suggests he’s completely unaware, and as if by rote the twerp says, “Hey Bateman, last week I brought a new herringbone tweed jacket to my tailor for alterations.”

    “Well, uh, congratulations seem in order,” I say, shaking his hand. “That’s…nifty.”

    “Thanks.” He blushes, looking down. “Anyway, he noticed that the retailer had removed the original label and replaced it with one of his own. Now what I want to know is, is this legal?”

    “It’s confusing, I know,” I say, still moving through the crowd. “Once a line of clothing has been purchased from its manufacturer, it’s perfectly legal for the retailer to replace the original label with his own. However, it’s not legal to replace it with another retailer’s label.”

    “But wait, why is that?” he asks, trying to sip from his martini glass while attempting to follow me.

    “Because details regarding fiber content and country of origin or the manufacturer’s registration number must remain intact. Label tampering is very hard to detect and rarely reported,” I shout over my shoulder. Courtney is kissing Paul Owen on the cheek, their hands already firmly clasped. I stiffen up and stop walking. Rhinebeck bumps into me. But she moves on, waving to someone across the room.

    “So what’s the best solution?” Rhinebeck calls out behind me.

    “Shop for familiar labels from retailers you know and take those fucking antlers off your head, Rhinebeck. You look like a retard. Excuse me.” I walk off but not before Humphrey reaches up and feels the headpiece. “Oh my god.”

    A print ad for Christian Dior monsieur from 1985, a tweedy picture of Daryl Janney, a popular male model from the eighties (via). And thread from your favourite #menswear message board or is just another excerpt from BEE’s American Psycho? Can you explain the difference to me while I torture your pet to death?

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  6. 24 Dec

  7. Oldskool banker

    Yuppie scum monday. The not so young, not very urban, not really professional edition - I don’t think Guy de Rothschild ever had to work a day in his life in order to provide an income for himself. Pictured above in 1952 in the old skool, public schoolboy banker uniform, pre-financial markets liberation and bond market boom. Note the exquisitely cut double breasted suit, bowler hat, the way he holds his cane, subtle pocket square and cuffed(?) gloves.

    P.S. I feel kinda sad for the poor victim of pre-photoshop picture retouching, the LIFE editors are a cruel bunch.

    english style guy de rothschild 1952 double breasted bowler hat hat gloves milstil

     
  8. 9 Nov

  9. Just found this scan on my mobile hard disk drive. Makes me want to wear my Borsalino tomorrow. From a spread titled Perfect Weekend in American GQ, 1987. 

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