milstil

My other (single topic) tumblrs: picturesofgianniagnelli | ralphlipschitz | italianindustrialist

    1 Dec

  1. Karajan style

    While going through my poorly archived picture collection I found this last scan (5th picture seen above) from an issue of American GQ from (I guess) the 1980s. The whole look stirred up something. The haircut, the sweater-as-a-scarf over a dark pull over - I have seen this before and it left an impression. Oh, of course. 'Karajan style'! The GQ stylists only got the watch wrong, Karajan wore his watches face down, like milstil favourite Benno. And Karajan’s sweaters were usually polo collared, collar points turned up… Ah, Herbert von Karajan. That legendary Austrian playboy and one of the most famous orchesteral conductors in the world post-WWII. I like to think of him as the European Leonard Bernstein, only less American and jewish. And more rich, narcissistic, photogenetic, slender and stylish. 

    So I’m thinking: should I do a post about him? Nah, the man was voted the best dressed man of Vienna way back when, and men everywhere emulated his signature casual style of dressing. Surely, all the #consipicousconsumptiongoneapeshit, #unobtainablelifestyleporn #menswear blogs obsessed with vintage glamour of bygone eras, jetset style and (dead) celebrities in general  must be full of pics of this dude. Hanging out in grand old European concert halls in white tie and tails, piloting his own jet to-and-from St Moritz, St Tropez and Salzburg. He raced Porsches, fucked courted models and socialites half his age, sailed his yachts across the Mediterranean. Like a Gunter Sachs or a Gianni Agnelli. Probably #menswear gospel. Little chance I can blog about him, I despise that sort of me-too blogging: me-too posts about me-too subjects. Trite shit. What-the-hell, let me try a Google search, just in case. Perhaps I might learn something new, something I did not know about his dressing habits. Silly sartorial trivia. Or some pictures I had not seen before, just maybe… 

    Wait, what. Nothing at all? Seriously? Really?

    herbert von karajan sweater-as-a-scarf knitwear sweater layering milstil

     
  2. 13 Oct

  3. Scary Sweaters

    Please lord, grant me the serenity
    To go into my closet and sort out
    All of my scary sweaters
    I have a party tonight so
    I need to look good for the lady folk
    The lady folk

    Got a closet full of scary sweaters
    They’ve been hiding in there forever
    Got a closet full of scary sweaters
    They’ve been hiding in there forever
    Give me the strength to go in there and get ‘em
    ‘Cause they look so damn good with denim

    My closet is a horror movie fashion show
    Tobe Hooper knitwear, John Carpenter to go
    Wes Craven fashion statement, ???
    Night of the living sweaters
    A. Romero-mero-mero

    I’m scared

    Got a closet full of scary sweaters
    They’ve been hiding in there forever
    Give me the strength to go in there and get ‘em
    ‘Cause they look so damn good with denim

    Fashion (2x)

    Fashion demon lords
    Fashion demon noise
    Fashion demon noise
    Fashion demon noise
    Let’s go
    Fashion demon noise
    One more time
    Fashion demon noise
    Fashion demon noise
    Make it fashion
    Fashion demon noise

    Got a closet full of scary sweaters
    They’ve been hiding in there forever
    Give me the strength to go in there and get ‘em
    ‘Cause they look so damn good with denim

    Some of them are hairy, all of them are scary
    Hideo Nakata, all over everywhere-y
    Some of them are Amsterdams, some of them are name brands
    All of them fat on the leisure suit of Larry

    Got a closet full of scary sweaters
    They’ve been hiding in there forever
    Got a closet full of scary sweaters
    They’ve been hiding in there forever
    Give me the strength to go in there and get ‘em
    ‘Cause they look so damn good with denim
    Look so damn good with denim

    10th track from Le Le’s Partytime

    Fashion demons Luca Cordero di Montezemolo (via), Emanuele Cito Filomarino and Enzo Manes (via) have the strength. Do note: collars out. Yeah. Yup. Uh-huh. What.

    le le scary sweaters sweater knitwear denim luca cordero di montezemolo emanuele cito filomarino enzo manes milstil

     
  4. 2 Oct

  5. Lucas

    De chef creatief bij de mannenafdeling van Lanvin. Die begrijpt het wel. Tenminste dat gevoel heb ik. De meeste ontwerpers en modemensen in het algemeen zijn wandelende marketingmachines en spuwen marketingpraat zodra je ze een microfoon onder de neus duwt. Lucas ook, maar op de één of andere manier accepteer ik ‘t wel van hem. Niet dat ik ooit ook maar iets van Lanvin zal kopen, want: vandaag 'heel erg nu' (en morgen dus 'heel erg van gisteren') en veel te duur (ben en blijf een ‘ollander). 

    Wat ik altijd interessanter vind is hoe de betere en prominentere ontwerpers zichzelf kleden. Omdat ik ervan overtuigd ben dat daar minstens evenveel energie in gaat zitten als het ontwerpen van collecties. Doorgaans (maar niet altijd) zijn het dezelfde ontwerpprincipes die aan het werk zijn maar het resultaat is subtieler, draagbaarder en ja, toch wel verfijnder. De ironie wil vaak dat ontwerpers hun eigen ‘creaties voor mannen’ nooit dragen (zie bijvoorbeeld Ralph Lauren, Kenzo, Valentino) en opteren voor serieuze bespoke en een wat tijdlozere snit. Lucas ook.

    Dat zien we hierboven 1) broek: bootcut (terug van weggeweest?) denim 2) trui: slank maar niet strak V-neck sweatertje (of toch een vestje) over een 3) hemd: wit(?) shirt met een zogenaamde ‘half tuck’: ‘an de veurkant in de broekband, an de achterkant slonzig erover. Populair bij ijdeltuiten en studenten (tenminste, toen ik nog studeerde). Dan nog de accessoires: 4) horloge: sportief modelletje van R***x op stalen bandje, past perfect bij een dergelijke dressed down geheel en om het af te maken 5) schoen: zo’n hoge lakleren gymschoen - maar met een beetje fantasie zijn dat natuurlijk een mooi paar chukka boots…

    lucas ossendrijver denim casual knitwear sweater cardigan half tuck milstil

     
  6. 9 Aug

  7. はい

    More echoes of stuff posted before. A Friday of sameness. Designer Kenzo Takada in his old Paris home. 

    (Source: Yahoo!)

    kenzo takada knitwear cardigan yes kenzo milstil

     
  8. 12 Jul

  9. From the dustbin of #menswear history

    Print ad from 1980 for François Duel’s casuals. 

    dead brand print ad 1980 knitwear cardigan françois duel