milstil

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    24 Oct

  1. (Shades for) Indian Summer (in late october…)

    I love you the best
    Better than all the rest.
    I love you the best
    Better than all the rest.
    That I meet in the summer.
    Indian Summer.
    That I meet in the summer.
    Indian Summer.
    I love you the best
    Better than all the rest.

    (Source: dailycaller.com, via ralphlipschitz)

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  2. 29 Sep

  3. Yeyo dreams

    He’s on the level if he’s inclined.

    The son of a devil, he wants mine and more.

    Ooh, he’s a high, high climber.

    Not just a clinging vine.

    He made the grade, he made his marks, senor,

    And guess who’s keeping score? 

    Rush rush, got the yeyo? 

    Buzz buzz, gimme yeyo.

    Rush rush, got the yeyo? 

    Uh oh.

    Yo yo, no no yeyo.

    Uh oh.

    He’s a real speed demon.

    He’s one of a kind.

    Watching, waiting, winking over his shoulder.

    He’s running out of time.

    Rush rush to the yeyo.

    Buzz buzz, gimme yeyo.

    Uh oh.

    Yo yo, no no yeyo.

    Go go.

    Rush rush to the yeyo.

    Never, never take a chance before you know he’s in a hurry.

    Better better make your mind up boy, he’s faster, he’s faster, he’s faster, he’s faster.

    Rush rush, gimme yeyo.

    Buzz buzz buzz, gimme yeyo.

    Uh oh.

    No no, gimme yeyo.

    Yo yo, dame yeyo.

    Uh oh.

    Rush rush, gimme yeyo.

    Buzz buzz buzz, gimme yeyo.

    Uh oh.

    No no, gimme yeyo.

    Yo yo, dame yeyo.

    Uh oh.

    He’s a real speed demon.

    He’s one of a kind.

    Watching, waiting, winking over his shoulder.

    He’s running out of time, time, time, time.

    Because I can imagine my poor readers might be gettin’ somewhat fed up with all the dark suits in the last 5 posts. So from the overloaded milstil concept posts folder I present to you this sweet little double breasted number. Also a very belated sequel to this summer suit post, a series that never really took off due to my highly unorganized blogging efforts. I actually found the other picture sets that would make up the series, but I guess it’s too late now it’s autumn and all. However… I could also rebrand the series drugdealerchic and do it anyway. Mmm.

    Back to the topic at hand. White DB, one from the category: so wrong it’s right again. Ralph knows how to wear the off white suit without resorting to theatrical nineteenthirties cosplay (to which so many iGents fall victim) and geniusly combines the suit with nothing more than (white shirts) and t-shirts. Note the perfect integration of the clothes with the coke white terrace of  a villa somewhere in the Pacific and the so-called ‘infinity edge pool’. Probably one of the very few settings a suit like this is not totally ridicous, so get that seaside villa first before thinking about commisioning a creme white DB. Another practical piece of fashion advice by yours truly. You’re welcome. Pictures by Richard Corman.

    ralph lauren summer suit double breasted tennis white rush rush debbie harry drugdealerchic richard corman milstil

     
  4. 25 Sep

  5. Peekaboo

    Big Ralph is watching you, with the magically straightened WASP-y grey locks. Gone is the tamed jewfro, this is iconography at work ladies & gentlemen. Like the Augustus of Prima Porta all features of the face idealized, when I come to think of it is almost staggering how much analogies one can draw between fashion advertising and the propaganda of totalitarian regimes. Not really a crazy idea if you realize both are based (megalomaniac) dreams and (pretty) lies. And both use and have used strong, recognisable symbols, logo’s and recurrent (visual) themes and motifs.

    There is the total all encompassing vision, constantly repeated through a barrage of images, of how people ought to be, ought to look, and ought to live like. The cult of personality erected around the deity that is the founder and/or designer. The rewritten life story of the designer - all missteps and unfortunate realities and bad choices are brushed away by clever propaganda PR people. And my favourite of all: the creation myth surrounding the founding of the brand and the glorification of the early days. It must be noted that this only works for established, older brands, old as in give or take twenty years. But forget about that, I find it remarkable how clever marketeers are able to polish the turd that is the often humble, sordid and hucksterish beginning in an all glamped up legend.

    Some noteable examples: the coup d’état by a minority rebranded as the Russian ‘Revolution’ of the trampled masses over the evil Tsars. The vast rituals in Nazi Germany in commemoration of the Beer Hall Putsch - an amateur ‘operation’ carried out by a band of disgruntled, bitter, drunk and unorganized brownshirts that vamoosed at the first sign of trouble  - - -  Contrast all that with Giorgio Armani’s revolution of unconstructed jackets (“the spirit of that is in everything I do”), essentially just a revival of nineteenthrirties style. And of course Ralph’s ‘big break’: the wider ties in ‘unusual fabrics’ (“the spirit of them is in everything I do”), yup you know the stories. An idea RL shamelessly stole from London designer Michael Fish by the way.

    (Source: ralphlipschitz)

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  6. 14 Sep

  7. Them tennis trousers…

    One year later. Still on my mind. Goddamnit. Fuck you Ralph, you and your trousers. —- RL bathing in the usual post show adulation at the runway show for the Ralph Lauren Spring Summer 2013 Collection. NYFW, september 2012. As some of the fashion obsessed may have noticed he wore pretty much the same sweater and tennis trousers at NYFW13. Anyway, click the pictures to enlarge. 

    P.S. For all dopeys slow to catch on: tennis trousers are a very archaic piece of sportswear worn by tennis players before shorts became the norm. Pre WWII tennis was still very much a plutocrats’ sport and in these circles at that time it was not kosher for men to expose their legs. So they wore loose fitting, high waisted and pleated, creme coloured cotton/linen trousers. - Phew, class dismissed, time for relaxation. 

    (Source: fashionstylebeauty.com)

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  8. 23 Aug

  9. The spirit of Brummell

    It lives on. In things like the pre-distressed denim of the masses, the so called sprezzatura of otherwise sane & serious men and the lives the style-obssesed tend to revolve around this concept of studied nonchalance and cultivated naturalness. In the words of Ralph’s nemesis: “The best thing is to look natural, but it takes makeup to look natural.” - CK

    ralphlipschitz:

    “My (asymmetrically) popped shirt collar, of course, forms my principal care, For by that we criterions of elegance swear; And it costs me, each morning, some hours of flurry, To make it appear to be arranged in a hurry.” - RL via BB

    Picture by unknown (via) & pictures by Dirck Halstead (via)

    I don’t think I have to explain that the tucked-in breast pocket flaps and that thing with the belt are not coincidences either. 

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