My other (single topic) tumblrs: picturesofgianniagnelli | ralphlipschitz | italianindustrialist

    6 Apr

  1. Like a self satisfied, smirkin’ SOB

    Dressed-by-internet, right? The tortoise shades, the quilted down vest worn over a tailored jacket, floppy hat, the blogger blue blazer - this has to be textbook pitti shit, correct? Well no, and yes. No, because the swaggering SOB was snapped by geriatric streetstyle blogger Ari Seth Cohen back in ‘09. And yes since the SOB in question, who’s name I forgot - but I do know he was an instrumental and pioneering figure in bringing the first Neapolitan tailored RTW to the US of A - knew it was going to be textbook pitti/blogger shit eventually. I figure our hatted Harry and sartorial soothsayer here must have been in the business for at least 40 years which makes me wonder: does he simply know what’s what (a.k.a. an early adopter) or is it sheer trickle down power (a.k.a. an initiator) who can enlighten me? 

    Then to think that at the time, oh-oh-oh back in O-nine, I was mostly curious about how much time this man had spent in the morning miscoordinating his belt and shoes and the off white shirt… Anyway, if you are able to id this dude, please send me message, and if you don’t know, well, then check out this grainy vid about Pitti and trends? Come to think of it, Meryl Streep as fashion editor Anna Wintour Miranda Priestly in a little guilty pleasure called The Devil Wears Prada (2006), describes the viral aspects of a (fashion) trend best in her 'cerulean monologue'. A great piece of screen writing, interesting for both students of film and fashion eh style. Here is a transcript which I stole from IMDB, Miranda schools her assistent Andy, who is the clueless protagonist the romcom is centered around.

    Miranda Priestly: [Miranda and some assistants are deciding between two similar belts for an outfit. Andy sniggers because she thinks they look exactly the same] Something funny?

    Andrea ‘Andy’ Sachs: No. No, no. Nothing’s… You know, it’s just that both those belts look exactly the same to me. You know, I’m still learning about all this stuff and, uh…

    Miranda Priestly: ‘This… stuff’? Oh. Okay. I see. You think this has nothing to do with you. You go to your closet and you select… I don’t know… that lumpy blue sweater, for instance because you’re trying to tell the world that you take yourself too seriously to care about what you put on your back. But what you don’t know is that that sweater is not just blue, it’s not turquoise. It’s not lapis. It’s actually cerulean. And you’re also blithely unaware of the fact that in 2002, Oscar de la Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns. And then I think it was Yves Saint Laurent… wasn’t it who showed cerulean military jackets? I think we need a jacket here. And then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of eight different designers. And then it, uh, filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic Casual Corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin. However, that blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs and it’s sort of comical how you think that you’ve made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when, in fact, you’re wearing the sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room from a pile of stuff.

    who is it? scarf hats sunglasses layering virality miranda priestly the devil wears prada cerulean monologue

  2. 16 Mar

  3. No shoes - No shirt - No service
    A rule mostly encountered in shops, restaurants, and other businesses in the United Oh-my-Gawwwds of America. Where if you have no shoes, no shirt, you will NOT get service. Unless you’re a hot chick of course. Could a French milliardaire (pseudo?)-philosophe be another exception? Or could it just be a ridicoulous question that is supposed to function as the lead-in (bruggetje) to the actual topic, the four photos posted? Mmm. Now I am to much of a square and a prude to ever begin to understand why a jacket or suit worn totally 'commando' is considered to be attractive on man. And to make matters worse I am also a terrible hypocrite because I enjoy the (so would say: douchey) 60s Côte d’Azur playboy- 70s disco shirt contrivances which produce the same effect when worn with a jacket in summer. Time to consult a psychologist? Most likely. However, conspicous consumption is cheaper and less confrontational so I think I will probably try to find a Mandarin jacket as seen in the third photo - to wear with old ripped denim and suede chukka’s. And maybe acquire (another) white pop-over or (another) white summer shirt with Capri collar to combine with my thrifted bespoke Domhoff tuxedo jacket from 1934 (not unlike the unit in second picture) - to wear with faded ripped denim and a pair of suede chukka boots. Finally, depending on depth of the crater in my account, perhaps burn more cash on an utterly useless ‘summer scarf’ to pair with a field jacket - in order to wear it with faded… eh you get the idea. Pictures of BHL by Milan Vukmirovic, which appeared in issue 11 of Purple Magazine. Click to enlarge.
    bhl field jacket mandarin jacket dinner jacket scarf milan vukmirovic casual denim bernard-henri lévy Bernard-Henri Levy milstil

  4. 15 Mar


    Tune:  “Jingle Bells”

    Toss your scarves, toss your scarves
    Toss them way up high.
    Toss your scarves up in the air,
    ‘til they reach the sky.

    Wave your scarves, wave your scarves,
    Twirl them ‘round and ‘round.
    Twirl your scarves one more time,
    Then let them, all fall down.

    Lyrics to this sweet little toddler’s song by Jean Warren, pictures of Vincent Bolloré with several carefully chosen, coordinated and well worn scarves. With or without overcoat. I can vaguely remember someone requesting something of some sort about this topic. And I must admit that given my guru Arnold’s stance on requests as heard in the 1987 cult classic Running Man, this post makes me feel very uneasy, perturbed and discomposed. Argh. Click to enlarge, via le Monde, le Figaro, jepic, jlcblog, Cotequimper and la Depeche

    vincent bolloré scarf scarves french style milstil

  6. 26 Jan

  7. Not so random scaf

    It looks slightly affected overdone? But somehow looks pretty darn good as well, just like the rest of the clothes - pleated chino - checked jacket, wide shoulders, bigger lapel, no hankie - chambrey(?) shirt. Above polaroids from 1976 (viaportray the ever cheerful fashion photographer Bob Richardson and family. Indeed, the father of star photographer and professional pervert Terry Richardson. The (hints of) seventies vibes are feelable, and that’s not necessarily a bad thing. It reminds me of that fuzzy old picture of style writer George Frazier… One might be inclined to say that Bob’s iteration of the look with scarf and deliberately nonchalant shirt collar arrangement might even trump George’s version with cowboy belt and hankie. Today for a change I will not browbeat you with my haughty opinions and beliefs and I ask you, my sweet little reader, what do you think? Bob>George or George<Bob?

    bob richardson george frazier scarf disco collar terry richardson milstil

  8. 2 Jan

  9. Post holiday bargain hunt

    Lazy day, lazy picture post. Traditional outerwear for black tie and your daily fix of aspirational brand names. Des cadeaux par milliers, L’officiel hommes, 1978. 

    black tie dinner jacket outerwear scarf l'officiel hommes 1978 milstil